Here follows a brief explanation of cuts used in the diamond industry:
Round Cut Diamonds
Round diamonds are traditionally the first and most popular diamond that’s given as a symbol of commitment. They have a classic uniform and symmetrical shape. Round diamonds have 58 facets, that qualify them a brilliant cut. Their faceting also makes colour and inclusions appear better than other fancy shapes. Over 50% of all diamonds purchased are round cut diamonds. They are overwhelming a popular selection for engagement rings and bridal jewellery.
Technological advances have improved the process of cutting diamonds and today we can enjoy the 58 facet round diamond cut. Its circular shape showcases 58 different eye catching facets of the diamond. It maximizes and catches the light from all angles which is why it is popularly referred to as round brilliant diamond. The round cut is the most popular shape of all the well known cuts in gemstones. It is easily identified and lends itself to every occasion night or day and every wearer, young or old, contemporary or traditional.
The search for the cut to showcase the facets of the diamond gemstone’s radiance and brilliance has led the way to many new cuts throughout the years. For many years the technology or the machinery simply did not exist for the round cut diamond. The invention of the bruting machine towards the end of the 1800s, made possible the round cut. Before the circular cut was invented diamonds sported a cushion cut popular in Europe. In 1919 the circular cut went through another transformation with Marcel Tolkowsky’s Diamond Design Thesis.
Princess Cut Diamonds
Since it was first introduced in the 1980’s, the princess cut has seen a steady rise in its popularity among diamond shapes. Currently, the princess cut is the second most sought-after shape and is still rising. Models of flexibility, princess cut engagement rings are well suited for fans of both traditional and contemporary styles. One of the advantages of a princess cut diamond is that any existing inclusions are less visible because of the unique cutting and polishing techniques that are used. While the princess cut hides inclusions, it also shows colour more clearly. With the proper proportions, however, this can be prevented.
Interestingly, princess diamonds are a great choice not only because they shine brightly, but because they tend to be less costly. When cutting a princess shape, there is less rough diamond lost because of the cutting process. In fact, the princess cut diamond is one of the most efficiently cut shapes utilizing more than 60% of the original stone’s weight. Relative to other diamond shapes, this keeps costs significantly lower and lowers the cost to you as the customer.
Oval Cut Diamonds
The timeless, elegant shape of the oval cut diamond adds a touch of class to any piece of jewellery. Combining the classic, high brilliance of the round cut with a more unique shape, the oval cut produces a sophisticated, modern twist on the traditional round shape. The elongated shape creates the illusion of longer, more slender fingers, making it extremely flattering on the hand. Created by Lazar Kaplan in the late 1950’s, the oval diamond is an excellent choice for the sentimental buyer on a budget. The oval is symbolic of a relationship built on trust and stability, and its lengthened shape makes this diamond look larger than other shapes of the same carat weight.
Similar to the marquise diamond with its elongated proportions, the oval cut diamond may exhibit a “bow-tie” effect across the centre of the stone. This darkened area can be seen in certain angles of light and is not a feature desired by most buyers. “Bow-ties” are more common in oval diamonds that are more elongated (those with length to width ratios greater than 1.55 to 1) and in excessively deep or shallow stones. Additionally, oval cuts are prone to showing colour more easily, so we suggest selecting a stone with an H colour or higher. As always, it is advisable to get a visual inspection on any loose oval diamond prior to purchasing.
Cushion Cut Diamonds
Possessing a character-rich antique look, the cushion cut diamond is a favourite centre stone option for those who prefer vintage style engagement rings and jewellery. The cushion cut gets its vintage appeal from a number of historical cushion diamonds, including the renowned Hope Diamond. Cushion cuts are usually square or slightly rectangular and are often described as pillow-shaped. Antique cushions were cut using step facets until Marcel Tolkowsky introduced the new method of cutting cushions with brilliant facets; the same faceting technique as a modern round cut diamond. This technique added more fire and brilliance and a cushion cut this way is commonly referred to as a “cushion brilliant”.
Nowadays, an even newer method is used when cutting cushion diamonds that add an extra row of facets to the pavilion or bottom of the diamond. Cushions cut this way are generally referred to as a “modified cushion brilliant” on diamond grading reports. Adding a modern flair, they can sometimes look like crushed ice with an enhanced sparkle. Some diamond cutters even use a hybrid of the two methods (larger facets), which decreases the “crushed ice” appearance but retains some of the modified sparkles.
Emerald Cut Diamonds
Emerald diamonds are the epitome of class and sophistication. The emerald cut is rectangular (square emeralds are commonly referred to as Asscher cut diamonds) with cut corners and rows of step-facets that reflect off each other. This effect is sometimes referred to as a “hallway of mirrors”. Because of its large step-facets (as opposed to brilliant-facets), inclusions are easier to detect in an emerald diamond with the naked eye. For this reason, we recommend selecting a diamond clarity grade of SI1 or higher when selecting an emerald cut.
Emerald cut diamonds are a popular choice among budget-conscious jewellery consumers. The decreased number of facets preserves more of the diamond’s rough weight when cutting, making them less costly than a similarly weighted round or princess stone. Emerald diamonds look best in rings that highlight their clarity and size, such as three stone settings or settings with small accent diamonds. Emerald cuts, because of their wider shape, look great on long, slender fingers and can actually look larger than they actually are.
Radiant Cut Diamonds
With an intricate 70 facet cut, radiant diamonds are effervescent and exude a tremendous amount of shine. Originally created by Henry Grossbard as an alternative to the emerald cut, radiant cut diamonds are square or rectangular and are superb reflectors of light and have been popular since their invention in the 1970’s. Those who appreciate the fire of round diamonds and the sophistication of Asscher or emerald diamonds will find the radiant cut to be the perfect combination of both. Radiant cuts, because of their many facets, tend to intensify the colour of the stone.
While this makes the radiant cut ideal for fancy colour diamonds, we recommend opting for a higher colour rating. When shopping for a radiant cut we suggest you choose an H or I diamond colour rating or higher because this shape can show more colour when compared to a Round cut. Mixed cuts, including the radiant, have been gaining popularity since their invention. These cuts preserve more of the rough stone than brilliant cuts, giving you more diamond per dollar spent. On diamond grading reports, radiants are often categorized as “Cut Cornered Modified Brilliant” shapes.
Marquise Cut Diamonds
There is no denying the timeless elegance of a marquise cut diamond. Due to their extended length, marquise diamonds can appear larger than other diamond shapes with the same carat weight or size. Boasting a brilliant 58 facets, the shape shines with substantial fire and sparkle. The marquise cut’s flattering effect creates the illusion of long, slender fingers. Due to their vintage flair, marquise diamonds are popular in vintage heirloom jewellery and look particularly stunning in accessory pieces, such as pendants, brooches or necklaces.
As with other elongated shapes such as the pear or oval cut diamond, marquise stones are prone to a “bow-tie” in the middle of the diamond where part of the stone appears dead as a result of the arrangement of facets. To prevent this, select a marquise cut with a length-to-width ratio below 2.20. Regardless, a visual inspection can establish if a marquise cut you are interested in has a bow-tie or not. Marquise diamond rings and other jewellery may also need special care due to its sharp points, which can make the stone susceptible to damage.
Pear Cut Diamonds
Ideal for the person who wants an elegant and sophisticated diamond, the pear cut diamond combines the best features of the round and marquise cuts. Resembling a sparkling drop of water with one end rounded and the other pointed, this shape is fittingly referred to as a “teardrop” or “drop cut”. The elongated shape creates a slenderizing effect, making the pear cut especially flattering on diamond rings and earrings. Pear cut diamonds are one of the most customizable shapes due to the variation of stone widths available. Narrower pear cut diamonds look especially graceful on dangle earrings, while one with a wider width makes a more robust showing on an engagement ring.
In an ideal pear cut diamond, the point lines up with the apex of the rounded arc, and both sides of the arc are symmetrical. Similar to the elongated shapes of the marquise and oval cuts, pear cut diamonds that have larger length-to-width ratios are prone to a darkening in the centre of the stone that is visible in a certain light. This “bow-tie” effect can be viewed with the naked eye, so it is important to get a visible inspection on your diamond before finalizing your purchase.
Heart Cut Diamonds
Nothing says “love” like a heart, and that is what makes the heart shape especially popular in an anniversary gift or engagement ring. Cut similarly to the pear shape, the heart features two rounded edges divided by a single cleft, rather than a single rounded arc. The heart cut is often featured in a simple ring setting to accentuate its unique qualities. The heart shape is best viewed in a diamond larger than .5 carats, as it is difficult to see the details of the cleft and point in smaller stones. If you require a smaller diamond, we recommend a bezel or 3-prong setting to better showcase the heart’s unique shape.
A talented diamond cutter is required to cut the heart shape, as it is one of the most difficult diamond cuts to create. Extreme skill and dexterity are necessary to ensure both round ends of the heart match perfectly and are divided by a sharp, well-defined cleft. We advise selecting the best diamond cut available in your price range to ensure the heart is symmetrical. For optimal symmetry, choose a stone with top arches that are even in height and width. Similar to the marquise, oval, and pear cut, the heart cut is prone to the “bow-tie” effect in the stone’s centre, so a visual inspection is highly recommended prior to making your purchase.
